The cleared table creates a pause. I like the final drink to fit that moment, whether it is a small digestif, coffee or simply water.

A generous shared dinner starts with the people eating it. Portion sizes and a little space between arrivals matter more than a long list of dishes.

I enjoy a lively room until listening becomes work. The right table depends on more than the volume of the music.

The best waterside table still has to be a comfortable place to eat. I think about glare and wind as much as the stretch of water beyond my plate.

I like an aperitif to give everyone time to settle. The right small bite and an unhurried first glass leave room for dinner.

As the window turns reflective, my attention moves toward the table. A late dinner changes more than the hour on the clock.